"I called Garage Door Medics Sunday night to request roller replacement on my parents' garage door. I was surprised to have someone call me ...back within the hour. Jeff was able to schedule the repair for 10 am the next day. I was very happy with the prompt scheduling. Jeff arrived on time and was very compassionate and professional. He gave my elderly parents a discount on the repair, and also lubricated the door and tightened the track, as well as adjusted the sensors. Rather than replacing just the single broken roller, he advised replacing all rollers since they would most likely break around the same time. So we did. He also showed us some things to watch out for like the bowing of the spring and advised that we have the spring positioned higher when it is replaced as it is creating more tension than necessary in its current position. I was very impressed with Jeff since he didn't try to sell us a spring replacement at this time since it could last a bit longer. He understood that my retired parents had limited income. I've had other vendors try to sell me everything they could. Thanks, Jeff! "

It’s difficult to say how often the springs will need to be replaced since it’s different for everyone. It depends on how often you use your garage door, how cold and long your winters are, how well you maintain your springs and many other factors. The best rule of the thumb is to check your springs regularly for signs of wear and damage and to replace them when they begin to appear tired.
Step 1: Check the metal tracks inside the garage. Look at the mounting brackets that hold the tracks to the walls. If they're loose, tighten the bolts or screws at the brackets. Working inside the garage with the garage door closed, examine the tracks for dents, crimps, or flat spots. If there are any damaged spots, pound them out with a rubber mallet, or with a hammer and a block of scrap wood. If the tracks are badly damaged, they should be replaced.
Install the vertical roller tracks first by wrapping the curved lip around the rollers. The top of these tracks should be approximately 8 in. below the top of the top section. Wait to install the upper tracks until this step is complete. Check the level of the top section to make sure the tops of the vertical roller tracks are level with each other. The bottom of the roller tracks should be at least 1/8 in. off the concrete floor. After leveling and mounting these tracks, install the upper roller (horizontal) tracks.
High-Cycle Springs: For longer lasting performance, choose our 100,000* high-cycle springs that are now powder coated. These springs are larger in length and inside diameter, resist rust, last longer than traditional springs and are guaranteed for life. Great for larger families, multiple vehicles and where the garage door is used more like your front door.

Finally, we also carry any and every residential garage door product that you need to have a state-of-the-art, secure and safe garage door. We are proud certified dealers of Clopay doors, the most durable and versatile doors on the market. With over fifty years of garage door manufacturing experience, you can trust Clopay quality, just as you can trust our team to install these highest-quality doors.
Can you find what you need in the big home improvement stores? Can they show you how to fix a broken garage spring? Do they know what tools and replacement parts you need? Do they know what safety precautions you need to take? If you have any questions during the project, can you call them for help? Have they ever actually repaired a broken garage door spring themselves?

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One of the best ways to care for your springs is to check them over for wear. You can certainly look at them for damage, but sometimes the damage isn’t something that’s visible. In these cases, try lifting the garage door up from the ground. About halfway up, let go. If the door stays, the springs are still working perfectly. If the door sags or drops at all, this could be a sign that your springs are beginning to weaken and will need replacing soon.
When you install a new garage door, replace all the hardware as well. If your automatic opener doesn’t have an automatic reversing system that includes photoelectric eyes, replace it. Doors with openers also require two extra pieces of hardware that you’ll see in Photo 4: a support strut (usually included in the door kit) and an opener bracket (not included). For doors with torsion springs located over the door, spend the $50 or so to have a garage door professional release the tension.
Automatic doors require not only the installation of a heavy door, but the motor and cables as well. Automatic doors are much more common now because of their convenience, but in a case such as the heavy wood door, they are a necessity. A strong motor is required to pull up a heavy door. However, automatic doors are not without their faults -- they quickly become a manual door when the power goes out.

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Regardless of the material, you will likely need to perform some regular maintenance tasks. A garage door professional can examine common problem areas to ensure all are working as they should. Additionally, it is necessary to examine the integrity of the door itself, since your garage can be especially vulnerable to security issues if your door is not structurally sound.

There are knobs or dials located somewhere on your garage door motor that you can use to adjust the limit settings. The exact location and resetting procedures will vary depending on the brand and model of garage door you have. Your owner’s manual should have more specific information on how to adjust your limits. You may need to experiment with a few adjustments before finally getting the correct setting. If you find that adjusting the limit settings isn’t working, it might be time to call a technician to come and help get your garage door to stay closed.
On average, to have your springs replaced on your garage door will vary anywhere from $200 to as much as $400 if you were to hire a professional.  Breaking the costs down, the springs, depending on the part needed and the size, will cost about $20 to $60 each.  Add in the labor, which can be $45 to $85 per hour, depending on your location, can bring the grand total to the estimate noted.   A tilt-up door, on average, will be about 20 to 30 percent less than a roll-up door.

However, in addition to potentially causing injuries to the under-prepared DIYer, a malfunctioning door can become a safety hazard to you and your family. Keep in mind, according to the National Electronic Injury Surveillance System (NEISS), over 13000 people checked into hospitals with garage related injuries in the United States in 2007. You don’t want to turn a loved one into a statistic just to save a few dollars!

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Our installer was phenomenal! I can not say enough on how prompt and cordial he was with the entire process of installing our garage door and a day later he returned with all of the necessary warranty documents and explained all of the features our particular door has. I will highly recommend him to friends and family. Thank you so much Home Depot for obtaining such quality people to do this kind of work. Read less
Install new or use this right-wound torsion spring Install new or use this right-wound torsion spring to replace broken sectional garage door torsion springs. All DURA-LIFT springs meet the DASMA standard rating of 10 000 plus door open and close cycles. Both the winding and stationary cones are professionally installed for safe operation. Winding rod is included with ...  More + Product Details Close
These instructions were first posted in 2005, and they were updated in August of 2008. I have been frank about the hazards of garage door repairs and about my own accidents incurred while replacing torsion springs. For what it's worth, you might be surprised to know that I, too, have benefitted from producing these instructions. I have not had any garage door accidents since we first published these on the web in 2005. And, in as much as I have helped keep other DIY-ers out of the emergency room, I consider myself somewhat of a medical practitioner.
Measure the various areas where the door will be installed: door-opening height and width, headroom (from top of opening to ceiling), and back room (length of garage). For the headroom, you should have about 10" to 12" of space, depending on the spring system you're installing. For the back room, you should have the door height, plus another 18" or more of space.

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There’s another reason new doors are superior to old ones: energy efficiency. Keep in mind, garage doors are large, and when they open, they let a lot of outside air into your home. While you may have significant insulation separating your garage from the rest of your home, eventually that temperature differential will start to influence your energy bills.

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I've been watching TOH since 1981. I just happened to stumble across it on PBS during a repeat of the second season, was instantly taken with it - and, hooked-for-good. That particular show/season (the Newton/ H. H. Richardson House - 1981) remains my favorite. Also, I happened to meet Norm quite a few years back and he mentioned it as being his favorite, as well - all-the-more reason for me to have fond memories of it. If I were to pick more 'favorites' from the 'Bob-era', 'Steve-era' and 'Kevin-era' they would be: 'Bob-era' - the Lexington Bed & Breakfast (1988) and the In-and-Around Boston shows (1984); 'Steve-era' - the Concord Barn (Wickwire House - 1989), the Wayland House (Kirkside - 1991)) and the Jamaica Plain House (1990); 'Kevin-era' - the Cambridge House (2005), the Newton Shingle-style House (2007) and the Detroit Houses (2017).p.s. - I've very much enjoyed the times that the show has gone back and looked at previous projects. It's always nice to see how the home - and homeowners - have done over time. Thank you!

Garage doors make life easier, particularly when you’re arriving home in the middle of a rainstorm. It’s easy to take the convenience a garage door provides for granted -- until it stops working properly. The door loses its visual appeal instantly, stuck there half-open. This type of situation also raises security concerns as a simple trip to the store can become a headache. Simple fixes when a garage door gets stuck halfway may prevent it from happening again. http://youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Z_eZc-kh40c

Grab a tape measure and press the hook between two spring coils and note the length of 20 coils. Then measure 40 coils. Convert the measurements to a decimal (4-1/2 in. to 4.5 in., or 4-1/8 to 4.125, for example). Divide the two measurements by 20 and 40 to obtain the spring's wire diameter. Here's an example: 4.50 divided by 20 = .225-in. wire diameter; 9.0 divided by 40 = .225-in. wire diameter. If the two results match, you've measured correctly.

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Unlike torsion springs, replacing extension springs has long been given the "green light" for DIYers, primarily because you can complete the job without having to deal with spring tension. The general process is simple and safe: open the door to relieve the spring tension (and secure it open with C-clamps in the tracks); disconnect the spring from the track bracket and the spring pulley, and disconnect the safety cable from one end; install the new spring, reinstall the pulley, and reconnect the safety cable, and you're done. https://www.youtube.com/e/Z_eZc-kh40c
Sometimes, it's not possible to repair the garage door springs, and the only option is to replace them. Replacing garage door springs costs between $200 and $300 for a professional to complete the job. This includes the cost of the spring, which ranges from $40 to $100 for a torsion spring and $5 to $30 for an extension spring. Labor rates for this work average between $45 and $65, depending on the company and the region. The price can also go up or down depending on the type of door. Replacing the springs on a tilt-up garage door costs between $150 and $200, which is slightly lower than the same work on a roll-up garage door, which typically costs between $200 and $250.
10.2 Tape your winding bars if you have not done so already, not only to assure that you are inserting the bars completely into the cones as you wind the torsion springs, but more importantly to assure that the bar does not slip out of the cone when you stretch the springs at the end. This has happened to me several times. Professionals always stretch torsion springs after winding them because the shaft floats horizontally between the flexible end bearing plates as the door operates. Although this may be as little as 1/4", the binding of the coils as the garage door closes oftentimes keeps the door from closing completely, especially when the torsion springs and bearings are dry.
Poor lubrication is a very common and easy to fix explanation for why you might find your garage door stuck. You should properly lubricate your garage door's track, the opener chain and the springs every few months as part of regular preventative maintenance. Be sure to use Clopay's Garage Door ProLube or sillicone based lubricants. Do not use WD-40.
If you are in an emergency situation, you can lift the door manually while using the garage door opener, but this is not recommended. The door could get stuck halfway up and then slam the rest of the way down. This could cause injury. The ideal solution is to call a Twin Cities garage door repair company to come quickly and repair the spring so that normal operation can be restored and so you are not in a situation where you find yourself having to attempt manual lift with or without the assistance of the opener.
Step 1: Check the metal tracks inside the garage. Look at the mounting brackets that hold the tracks to the walls. If they're loose, tighten the bolts or screws at the brackets. Working inside the garage with the garage door closed, examine the tracks for dents, crimps, or flat spots. If there are any damaged spots, pound them out with a rubber mallet, or with a hammer and a block of scrap wood. If the tracks are badly damaged, they should be replaced.

Most home centers don't carry all the replacement parts you'll need for garage door spring replacement, and most garage door service companies won't sell you springs. So you may have to order the parts online and wait for the shipment to arrive. Garagedoorpartsusa.com and stardoorparts.com are two online sources . First, inspect the condition of your cables and brackets. If you see any frayed strands on the cables or rust on the bottom brackets, replace them now before they fail. Bottom brackets cost about $15 per set. Premium-quality cables (listed as “7x19”) last much longer than economy cables and cost only about $4 more. So it's smart to buy the better cables for about $12 per set.

Almost every garage door opener wall control unit has a lock button. The lock button is sometimes referred to as the “vacation button” because it’s usually the only time that it is used. By pressing the lock button, you lock out all garage door opener remotes. The purpose in doing so is to ensure that nobody gets a hand on one of your remotes – such as the one left in your car – and using it to break in while you are away from home for an extended period of time.
Thread the cables and tighten the drums. Run the lift cable between the roller and the doorjamb. Slip the lift cable stop through the cable slot on the drum. Then, attach locking pliers to the torsion tube to secure it in place. Spin the drum to wind the cable into the grooves, then tighten the set screws. Repeat on the other side, leaving the locking pliers in place.[11] 

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Thread the cables and tighten the drums. Run the lift cable between the roller and the doorjamb. Slip the lift cable stop through the cable slot on the drum. Then, attach locking pliers to the torsion tube to secure it in place. Spin the drum to wind the cable into the grooves, then tighten the set screws. Repeat on the other side, leaving the locking pliers in place.[11]

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Center and level the first section after you install the brackets. The door must be level even if the floor isn’t, so use shims under the section to level it. The rubber gasket on the bottom section will fill the gaps created by an unlevel floor. To hold the level in place, tape it to the section. To hold the section in place, lightly toenail a 16d nail into the frame and bend it over the section. Add brackets and rollers before setting them in place and stack one section on top of another, toenailing as you go up.
However, in addition to potentially causing injuries to the under-prepared DIYer, a malfunctioning door can become a safety hazard to you and your family. Keep in mind, according to the National Electronic Injury Surveillance System (NEISS), over 13000 people checked into hospitals with garage related injuries in the United States in 2007. You don’t want to turn a loved one into a statistic just to save a few dollars!

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10The type of garage door shown provides the necessary lift assistance with a “torque tube.” If you intend to use an opener, wait to install the tube. Otherwise, install the torque tube according to the manufacturer’s directions. Roll up the door about 4 feet to check for the alignment of the tracks, and make any adjustments. Then tighten all fasteners.
DIYers are generally steered away from working with torsion springs because installed springs are always under tension. To safely remove a torsion spring, you have to control the tension by holding the spring with a solid metal winding bar, then you loosen the spring from the rod and manually unwind the spring using two winding rods. The spring is potentially dangerous until it is fully unwound. By contrast, extension springs have little or no tension when the garage door is fully open.
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